Runtime: 120 min
Directed By: John Milius
Starring: Gary Busey, Jan-Michael Vincent, William Katt & Gerry Lopez
This might be the best movie ever made to include surfing. It is also probably one of the best representations of surfing and the surf culture. If I ever make movies, I would love to be able to make something that was considered in the same league as Big Wednesday.
The story is a little bit like Citizen Kane meets endless summer. We see a group of surfers mature during a time that is important to both them as individuals and the nation around them. Though everyone is a surfer, they represent the diversity within the sport and we are presented with a wide range of priority sets. From the choices the characters make, we are given a glimpse at what life would be like if we followed similar priorities. There are themes of friendship and longevity, but what stood out to me the most was lifestyle and the factors that play a part in that.
As a surfer, the correlation was fairly exact for me. But the relevance of the characters is almost universal. Matt is talented but would rather enjoy himself than work under pressure to be great. Jack walks the straight and narrow and has the respect of those around him, but must sacrifice what he loves. Leroy does what he wants, but must sacrifice the experiences of adulthood because of it. Finally, Bear has a passion that brings him to the top and sends him right down again and in the end he must pass it to someone else.
So surfing, like anything we enjoy, will always compete with other uses for our time. Jobs, relationships, and lifestyles will butt head directly against our passion and we all must make a choice as to who will come out on top. Surfing is particularly hard to work with because waves are inconsistent. It will not fit into your schedule, you must work around the occurrence of waves. I’ve seen a lot of unique ways to deal with that. Some people start their own business so they can be flexible, but they sacrifice security and wealth. Some people resign to surfing on the weekends and before work, hoping that is when waves will hit. There are even people who are forced to give it up for time concerns or relocation. We all have a choice with what to do with our time and how to live. There is not an easy answer or even a right one, just choices and dealing with the consequences.
Technique- 6
Production Quality- 7
Story- 8
Thought Provoking- 8
Entertainment- 8